We are indeed moving up the food chain. Horologycrazy is reviewing
a Rolex. A proper (if you can call it that) review, not just a pictorial
review. :)
Today we are looking at the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36mm,
reference 116200. This is a basic Rolex offering time with the date
complication. The watch is not new, but pre-loved circa 2008. Oh,
this is not my watch but courtesy of MWF shop.
Case.
As with all watches in the Rolex range, the case is made from 904L
stainless steel. The case is well made and is of the 3-piece design,
i.e. bezel, mono-block middle case and a screw-down case back. The
watch is 36 mm in diameter and 12.5 mm thick (at extreme and 11.5 mm
without the Cyclops). The lug to lug is 44mm long and the lug width
is 20 mm.
The case has the traditional Rolex Datejust trademark polished
sides and top. The bezel is dome and polished bezel. There is no lug
holes on the lugs. I like the design of the new case, with its
thicker or fatter lugs. It makes the watch seem larger then it is.
The watch does not look 36mm but larger. I believe this version is
called the wide version.
The screw-down case back is standard Rolex, unmarked with a
brushed center disc. Serrated edge provides the grip to unscrew the
case back.
The crown measures 5.5 mm in diameter and is 2.5 mm thick. It is a
nice size and using it is a breeze. Nice size crown for the watch.
The crown is of the Twin-lock double waterproof system design (line
under the crown), which means the watch is water resistant to 10ATM.
I understand the model number and serial numbers are still
engraved between the lugs, since it (serial number) is now engraved
on the chapter ring (rehaut?).
The entire case and attachments are well made, to typical Rolex
standards. Well polished, smooth to the touch and no rough edges. No
tool mark evident anywhere. :)
Dial.
The watch has a simple glossy black dial (there are many many dial
option for the Datejust). It has Roman hours markers which are
polished. I believe Rolex calls it Black Roman dial. The minute
markers are of the railroad design and I think it matches the Roman
numerals well. It is a simple dial making time telling easy. I like
it. Sadly the dial is totally void of any luminous material making
telling time in the dark almost impossible.
At the 12 o’clock position we find the Rolex crown and
signature. Under it we find the legend ‘Oyster Perpetual’ for
water resistant case design and automatic and 'Datejust', the watch
model. Beside the 6 o’clock hour marker we find the legend ‘Swiss
Made’ which tells us the watch is Swiss made. Just above the 6
o’clock hour marker, we find the legend ‘Superlative Chronometer
Officially Certified', telling us the watch meets COSC requirements
for accuracy.
The date is displayed via a window at the 3 o’clock position.
The date wheel is black on silver/ white, and it is very easy to
read.
The Datejust comes with the engraved chapter ring/ rehaut. Here
you will the Rolex name repeatedly engraved around the rehaut, except
at the 6 o'clock position where you will find the watch serial
number. The engraving is very well executed.
Hands.
The watch has the stick type hands. The hands are well made and I
believe it is made of white gold. The sweep seconds hand extends all
the way to the minute markers (just). Sadly the minute hand does not
as it is a tad shorter. As with the dial, the hands are devoid
of any luminous material.
Crystal.
The watch is fitted with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and
has the Cyclops over the date window (providing 2.5 times
magnification). The Cyclops is 1 mm thick. The crystal itself is 30
mm in diameter. The crystal does extend beyond the bezel by about 1
mm and is prone to edge chipping.
Movement.
The watch is powered by Rolex caliber 3135. It is an automatic
movement with a date complication. The 3135 has been in service since
1989 (some say 1988) and is the workhorse caliber from Rolex. It is
not a pretty movement but what it lacks in beauty, it makes up in
reliability and robustness. Indeed function over form. What is there
to say about the 3135? It is COSC rated, it has Microstella
adjustment screw and Kif shock absorption. It beats at 28,800 BPH,
hacking, hand-wind capable, quick-set date, bidirectional
self-winding Perpetual rotor.... did I miss anything?
I am not sure if the 3135 fitted in this watch has the new
Parachrom Bleu hairspring, but I suspect (from the serial number) it
could have it. That would indeed by awesome.
Oh, the date jump is instantaneous at midnight.
Bracelet.
The bracelet is of the Oyster design or aka Oyster Bracelet. The
bracelet is made of the same material as the case, 904L stainless
steel. The bracelet (cross section) is made up of 3 pieces, with the
center piece polished. The side links are brushed. The sides of the
links are polished. The links are solid. A very well made bracelet
indeed.
The end links are SEL (solid end links) and have the same brushed
and polished finish and is well made. It sits well between the lugs
and has a ‘open’ design, i.e. gaps to facilitate the spring bars
removal.
The clasp, the folding Oysterclasp with Easylink is made of (I
believe) steel inox. It is well made. There is no twin lock on the
clasp and it does not need it. The clasp is signed with the Rolex
Crown and has a brushed finish with the center portion polished like
the bracelet. The clasp is easy to use and easy to open, yet you feel
safe that it will not inadvertently unlock.
The clasp comes with the Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link.
This is a Rolex patented extension system that lets you increase the
bracelet length by about 5 mm. This is to retain maximum comfort when
your wrist expand during an increase in temperature, altitude or
physical activity. The Easylink is hidden beneath the clasp and
integral into the bracelet. I tied it and it is cool.
Standard length adjustment is via adjustment holes on the folding
clasp. There are 3 adjustment holes and allows the bracelet to be
adjusted by 10 mm in length. The unique aspect about this adjustment
is that the holes do not go thru the sides of the clasp. The
adjustment holes are just like indentations inside the clasp. Adjusting it not as easy.
If there is a need to adjust the bracelet longer or shorter, there
is a need to physically alter the length of the bracelet by removing
or adding links. And this can easily be done with the provided 3
links with screwed attachments.
The folded part of the clasp/ bracelet is polished and milled, no
longer the stamped parts of old. It has the Rolex signature and
Geneva Swiss Made on one half while the other is marked Steel Inox
and RolexSA. It is thin but does the job and does it well.
Conclusion.
It is a very simple and stylish watch, iconic Rolex. It is very
comfortable watch, not heavy but with enough heft. It has a simple
black dial, Roman numerals (which I love) and those lovely polished
hour and minutes hands making time telling simple. Legibility is
never a problem, except in total darkness, but in this day of age,
where can we be where there is not a sliver of light to reflect on
those beautiful hands and markers. The modern bracelet and clasp is
just the topping on an already awesome watch. The Datejust is
timeless in design, a true classic.
