HMS Ten
celebrates the 10th anniversary of Romain Gautier and features off-centre hours
and minutes; small seconds; partially open dial; hand-finished, in-house
movement visible through display back; and ergonomic flat case back crown.
The dial of
HMS Ten is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Inside the chapter
ring, there is the smoothly finished, off-centre hours-minutes subdial bearing
the R. Gauthier logo and flanked either side by a Clous de Paris.
On the
lower portion of the subdial, sectorial seconds allows visual access to the
movement below, with the balance wheel and distinctive gear driving the seconds
on show. The three parts of the dial are fixed invisibly from beneath, lending clarity
and classicism to the displays.
“With HMS Ten,
supreme legibility was paramount,” says Romain Gauthier. “My idea was to have a
dial with completely unobstructed views. Once the eye is drawn to the hour-minute
subdial, it is then naturally attracted to the sectorial seconds. Nothing disturbs
the wearer’s reading of the time.
“Such a
timeless, elegant dial design came to me naturally because I was born in the
heart of Swiss watchmaking, the Vallée de Joux, and was constantly exposed to
classic, historical dial design as I grew up there.”
The graceful
41mm diameter case is distinguished by pure, clean, unbroken lines around its
full perimeter. However, it is the absence of a normal crown that reveals just
how remarkable the movement is.
Placing the
crown flat on the caseback increases winding efficiency because energy does not
need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components.
The large diameter of the crown also enables the watch to be easily wound, even
while on the wrist.
While the
dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was
entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by
Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house
calibre is fully showcased, with virtually every component bearing Roman
Gauthier's distinctive touch.
The Vallée
de Joux style finger bridges catch both the light and the eye with their
seductive polished curves. The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms
providing both elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique
S-slot, enabling more torque to be applied and aesthetic.
With its
distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has
been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features
a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.
The large movement
bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and
ratchet click. The cut-out features four highly polished, sharp internal
bevelled angles – this anglage is the hallmark of superlative hand finishing
since machines are not yet capable of milling and polishing sharp internal angles.
Impressively,
all components are designed, developed and manufacture by Romain Gauthier
except for the mainspring, balance spring and jewels.
HMS Ten is available in three limited editions of 10 pieces
each: platinum case/blue dial, white gold case/champagne dial and red gold
case/anthracite dial.
HMS Ten Technical Specifications
Features and Indications
Off-centre hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 4 o’clock
Dial open 4 o’clock to 8 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and
seconds gear
Multi-level, multi-textured dial featuring smooth and Clous
de Paris finishes
Hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display
back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding
Dial and Hands
Platinum 950 limited edition of 10 pieces
Blue dial
Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
Silvered numerals
Rhodium-treated hands
18k 5N red gold limited edition of 10 pieces
Champagne dial
Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
Black numerals
Gilded hands
18k white gold limited edition of 10 pieces
Champagne dial
Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
Black numerals
Gilded hands
Photographs: Romain Gauthier
Movement and Finishing
In-house manufacture movement Calibre HMS
Power reserve: around 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine hand finishing including hand polished screws and jewel
countersinks, hand polished bevels and bridges
Case and strap
Case materials: 5N red gold, white gold or platinum 950
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1 mm
Water resistance: 10m /1 atm / 30’
Strap and buckle: alligator leather hand-stitched in
Switzerland with pin buckle in metal to match case
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